Travel StoriesOn the morning of 8th August at 6:30 am, we embarked on our journey, just the two of us, as Prabeen had left the day before. The sight was mesmerizing from the very beginning with fog-covered mountains, lush greenery, and flowing streams and rivers. Throughout the trip, we hadn’t encountered many other bikers, but today was different; we noticed an increasing number of bikes and cars on the road. It made us realize that we were not alone in our journey; many others were traveling to the same destination.
As we continued a little further, we spotted the car of the Keralites we had met yesterday near Dal Lake. They signaled us to stop, and we obliged. There were a married local couple facing a problem with their front car wheel, which had no air. Their spare tire was also deflated, making it impossible to drive on the rough road. Luckily, we had an air-inflator with us, and we assisted them in inflating the tire so they could rush to the nearest tire shop. We got to know the Keralites team better during this encounter, learning that they were part of the Kerala Police and took such trips annually. There was also a Kerala family traveling on the same direction, consisting of a father, mother, and baby daughter.
After bidding them farewell, we continued our journey. We exchanged phone numbers with the Keralites for future contact. Soon, we reached the renowned Sojila Pass, also known as Zeropoint. This pass marked the first major milestone on our route. The name “zeropoint” originated from the heavy snow cover during winters, making habitation extremely difficult. The landscape was barren with no large trees or human settlements in sight, only small grasses. Beyond Sojila Pass lay the rain shadow area, characterized by dry regions with minimal rainfall. The transition in climate was evident from the lush green hills to the increasingly arid mountains. Occasionally, we spotted patches of green plants, but mostly the terrain was dominated by dirt and charred vegetation. The journey continued through these ever-changing landscapes.
On the way to Kargil, 55 km before reaching the town, we came across the Kargil War Memorial. We decided to stop there, and to our surprise, we found all the Keralites we had encountered earlier on our journey also present. The memorial showcased scenes from the Kargil war that took place between India and Pakistan in 1999. It was a poignant sight, with tributes to all the soldiers who lost their lives in the conflict and displays of the weapons used during the war.
Inside the memorial, there was a museum where photography was prohibited, but the images and artifacts we saw left a lasting impact on our minds. The museum exhibited various guns, rifles, and other war implements used by both countries during the conflict. Additionally, we were shown the salary figures of the Pakistan Army, despite their claim of non-involvement in the war. However, what struck us the most were the last letters written by the soldiers who had perished in the war to their families. Reading their heartfelt words, inquiring about their loved ones and expressing their emotions, brought tears to our eyes.
Beyond the museum visit, we had the chance to meet a soldier from Tamil Nadu. He shared the harrowing story of how Pakistan had infiltrated and attacked from the hill just behind the memorial’s location. Normally, during winters, both countries would withdraw from their outposts due to severe cold and return when the weather improved. However, in 1999, Pakistan broke that agreement, came to the posts early and attacked India. The conflict lasted three months until India reclaimed its territory. Following that, the area remained under constant vigilance, and the soldiers endured extreme cold with temperatures dropping as low as -40 degrees Celsius.
We paid our respects to those brave souls who had stood guard during such challenging times. It became apparent that life at the outpost was not easy, and even getting adequate food was a struggle in such inhospitable conditions. Nonetheless, the dedication and sacrifice of those soldiers left a deep impression on us, reminding us of the true cost of war and the valor of those who defend their country.
After visiting the Kargil War Memorial, we made our way to the Hotel Zojila Residency in Kargil. Despite some delays caused by Muharram, we eventually arrived at the hotel. The accommodation and food at the hotel were excellent, and the staff was very friendly and helpful. The hotel manager provided us with valuable encouragement and information for our ongoing journey.
The following morning, we started our journey towards our main destination, Leh, via NH-1. The road was well-maintained and not too busy. Comparing it to the roads in our own state, which often go unrepaired and deteriorate quickly, I couldn’t help but appreciate the efforts of the Border Road Organisation (BRO) in maintaining such challenging roads in severe weather conditions.
As we ascended to higher altitudes, we were mindful of the possibility of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) – Read more about AMS here. To mitigate any potential issues, we both took Diamox tablets when we experienced slight headaches, and fortunately, it helped prevent any further problems. The weather was sunny yet cold, and we wore protective eyewear while riding the bike to shield our eyes from the intense sunlight at higher elevations – Read about the sunlight on mountains.
By afternoon, we reached our hotel in Leh, situated approximately 11,500 feet above sea level. The altitude brought about a slight sense of fatigue due to the reduced oxygen levels, so we decided to rest for the entire day to allow our bodies to acclimate to the new weather conditions. This period of rest was crucial for adjusting to the high altitude and ensuring our well-being during the rest of the journey.
(To be continued…)
