Travel Storiesമലയാളത്തിൽ വായിക്കുക – Delhi-Leh-Delhi Bike Trip 2nd Part
We made sure to get an early start on our trip for various reasons such as avoiding traffic, beating the heat, and being able to cross any water crossings that may have formed after rain..etc. However, today we ended up starting a bit later as we were traveling on highways and hoped to reach our destination on time according to the Google Maps estimate. Upon returning from Delhi around 7:00 AM, a friend recommended that we stop for breakfast at a dhaba called Amrik Sukhdev in a place called Murthal along the way. When we arrived at the location marked on Google Maps, we were surprised to see a building that resembled a luxurious hotel, with plenty of parking and a sign for Amrik Sukhdev. We left our motorcycle and belongings with the security guard and went in to eat when he assured that everything would be taken care of.
The dhaba we visited was capable of seating at least 500 people at once, which may come as a surprise to those accustomed to the small, rustic dhabas typically found in rural areas. Despite the modest appearance of these establishments, the food is relatively not that expensive compared to the size of the building. After eating our fill, we continued on our journey feeling satisfied and content. The weather was sunny and the road was in excellent condition, with multiple lanes and no potholes, making the journey enjoyable with fields and greenery all around. Our conversation and banter were enhanced by the intercom system. The route from Delhi to Chandigarh was exceptionally well-maintained and enjoyable to drive on, but the only issue we encountered was other drivers who seemed to be ignoring their surroundings and paying no attention to others on the road.
We arrived in Chandigarh in the afternoon, but it took us a while to find our hotel because the location given to us was incorrect. When we finally arrived, we were unable to park our motorcycle in the hotel’s parking lot because there was construction happening. We were feeling tired and hungry after spending time in the sun, so we had a small meal and took a nap. We did not feel like exploring the area and spent the evening in our room. Later, when we went out in search of dinner, we noticed that the main road near our hotel was poorly lit and had little traffic. After walking a short distance, we saw a few hotels with pubs, but none of them were vegetarian. We eventually found a hotel that seemed to be the best option and quickly returned to our room due to an unpleasant smell. As we were not very hungry, we only had some snacks for dinner from the hotel we stayed.
03-08-2022
Our destination for the day was Amritsar, which was not too far away, so we started our journey after breakfast. We arrived in Amritsar in the afternoon and parked our motorcycle on the side of the road in front of the hotel where we had made a reservation. As we were leaving the hotel in the evening, we noticed that other cars were parked on the side of the road and secured with a chain and padlock. This made us worried that there might be a risk of theft.
After it got dark, we planned to visit both the Durgiana Mandir and the Golden Temple. Since the Golden Temple is typically less crowded at night, we decided to go to the Durgiana Mandir first. We found an electric tuk-tuk, which is similar to an open autorickshaw, outside the hotel. These vehicles are common in the area.
The Durgiana Temple, also known as the Lakshmi Narayan Temple, Durga Temple, and Sheetala Temple, is a Hindu place of worship located in Amritsar, Punjab. Its architectural style, similar to that of the Gurdwara, attracts many visitors including devotees and tourists from around the world. The temple gets its name from the main goddess Durga, and is also a place of worship for Vishnu and Lakshmi. Open to people of all faiths, the temple promotes a peaceful and welcoming atmosphere. In addition to the main deities, the temple includes shrines dedicated to other gods and goddesses, as well as a library and museum containing religious artifacts and texts. The temple also has a large pond known as the Holy Tank, which is used for religious rituals and ceremonies. The main temple is located in the middle of this pond.
We walked around the Durgiana Temple slowly, taking in the beautiful views at night. It was nice to see the lights reflecting in the pool, and we also visited the Hanuman temple attached to the main temple. Inside the Hanuman temple, we saw a banyan tree that is said to be the one to which Hanuman was tied while trying to free the Lavakushas who were bound during Lord Rama’s Aswamedha Yaga. At 9:00 PM, we left to visit the Golden Temple, again using a tuk-tuk for transportation.
Soon, we reached the Golden Temple area, where vehicles are not allowed due to the busy commercial street surrounding the temple. There is a large shopping street where visitors can shop without traffic. As we walked towards the temple, we saw a huge statue of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in the middle of the path.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh
Ranjit Singh, also known as the “Lion of the Punjab” or Sher-e-Punjab, was the first Maharaja of the Sikh Empire in northwestern India. He was born on November 13, 1780 and died on June 27, 1839. Singh lost sight in his left eye after surviving smallpox as an infant. At the age of 10, he fought his first battle alongside his father. After his father’s death, Singh spent his teenage years fighting in various wars to oust the Afghans, and at the age of 21 he was declared the “Maharaja of Punjab”. Under his leadership, the Punjab region flourished and his empire grew until his death in 1839. Prior to Ranjit Singh’s rise to power, the Punjab region was divided and controlled by various confederations called Misls, with 12 being Sikh and 1 being Muslim. Singh was able to unite these misals under his rule and conquer other regional kingdoms to form the Sikh Empire. He was able to successfully defend his empire against external attacks, particularly from Afghanistan, and maintained friendly relations with the British. During his reign, he implemented reforms, modernized the country, invested in infrastructure, and brought prosperity to the region. His army consisted of Sarkar, Sikhs, Hindus, Muslims, and Europeans. He is remembered for fostering a cultural and artistic revival among the Sikhs, including the reconstruction of the Harmandir Sahib in Amritsar and other important gurudwaras such as Takht Sri Patna Sahib in Bihar and Hasur Sahib Nanded in Maharashtra. After his death, he was succeeded by his son Kharak Singh. In 2020, Ranjit Singh was named the “Greatest Leader of All Time” in a poll conducted by BBC World Histories Magazine.
From where we were, we could see a distant view of the Golden Temple. We quickly made our way there, and upon arriving, we deposited our handbag and shoes in a storage facility before entering the temple. Inside, we were struck by the beautiful sight of the Golden Temple illuminated by lamplight, with its reflection in the surrounding pool adding to the beauty. As we walked around, we reached the entrance, where we noticed that the crowd was not too bad despite the late hour. It is estimated that around 150,000 devotees visit the temple every day. The temple is open to people of all castes and religions, and prasad, a sacred food offering, was being distributed in many areas for all visitors to enjoy.
A brief description of the Golden Temple
The Golden Temple, also known as the Harmandir Sahib or Darbar Sahib, is a gurdwara, or Sikh place of worship, located in Amritsar, Punjab, India. It is considered to be one of the most sacred places in Sikhism, along with the Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur and the Gurdwara Janam headquarters. The site of the temple includes a man-made pond that was completed by Guru Ramdas in 1577, and in 1604 Guru Arjan installed a copy of the Adi Granth, the holy scripture of Sikhism, in the temple. The Gurdwara has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times due to persecution and attacks by Mughal and Afghan armies. Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the founder of the Sikh Empire, rebuilt the temple in marble and copper in 1809 and covered the shrine with gold plates in 1830, leading to its name of the Golden Temple.
According to historical Sikh tradition, the Golden Temple performs several ceremonies every day to honor the Guru Granth Sahib, the holy scripture of Sikhism, as a living being. These ceremonies include the closing ceremony, known as Sukhasan, and the opening ceremony, known as Prakash. During the closing ceremony, after devotional kirtans and ardas, or prayer, the Guru Granth Sahib is closed and carried on the head to the bedroom of the Akal Takht, a throne of spiritual authority for the Sikhs, where it is placed on a bed. The opening ceremony involves taking the Guru Granth Sahib out of the bedroom early in the morning and carrying it on the head in a palanquin, a covered litter carried by men, decorated with flowers and placing it on the causeway. It is then brought into the sanctum, or innermost part of the temple, and after a series of var asa kirtans and an ardas, a random page is opened and read aloud for the pilgrims to read on that day.
We went inside the temple and saw everything, including Acharyas, or spiritual leaders, engaged in scripture reading on different floors. After exploring the inside of the temple, we went back out to enjoy the golden glow of the building. As we were taking pictures, in a couple of pictures, we pointed towards the temple, and a devotee who saw us asked us not to do so and instead take pictures only with folded hands. We noticed this and moved on. After leaving the temple, we had some food and called a tuk-tuk to take us back to the hotel. Since we were unfamiliar with the route, we kept checking the Google map on our phone. The driver noticed this and asked us to put the phone in our bag, explaining that it is common for thieves on bikes to steal phones in the area. When we asked if the police would do anything about it, he told us that they are not interested in such incidents. We then made it back to the hotel safely.
Tomorrow’s plans include visiting Jallianwala Bagh and attending the flag-lowering ceremony at the Wagah-Attari border. With these activities in mind, we went to sleep without wasting much time.
(To be continued…)
