Travel StoriesOn the morning of the 5th, we set out for Jammu. Prabeen was not ready at that time, so we decided to continue our journey without him. We stopped at a roadside Dhaba (Punjabi hotel) for our morning meal. Later in the afternoon, we reached the hotel we had booked in Khatra.
The hotel we stayed at did not have a parking facility for bikes, so we had to park our bike at another hotel of the same owner, which was a little far away. After taking a short rest, we ventured out to find some food and buy some medicines. Khatra is known for its variety of dry fruits, so we took the opportunity to purchase some. Dry fruits can be really helpful when you can’t find good food options, as they can stave off hunger. Additionally, we made sure to buy essential medications, such as Diamox for altitude sickness (AMS), as well as medications for fever and stomach problems. These would come in handy during our trip.
After a while, Prabeen also arrived and took a room in another hotel nearby. In the evening, I started feeling sick to my stomach, and it wasn’t long before I began vomiting heavily, expelling all the food I had eaten that day. Thankfully, the stomach issue gradually subsided after that. It seems the breakfast I had that day was the cause of the problem, but fortunately, Divya remained unaffected. Later that night, after having a conversation with Prabeen for some time, we went to sleep. The next morning, we woke up early and prepared to begin our journey to Srinagar. However, by that time, Divya also started experiencing stomach problems and vomited, likely due to the previous day’s food. Fortunately, the stomach issues had resolved for her in some time, so we decided to proceed with our journey.
Since this trip took place during the rainy season, there was a lot of discussion circulating on the internet about the travel conditions of the routes we were planning to take. The route we were embarking on had experienced heavy rain and mudslides in the past few days. However, thanks to the prompt action of the BRO (Border Road Organisation), they managed to clear all the obstacles and make the road passable. Still, there were concerns about the road’s condition, and numerous groups on Facebook had been sharing articles and videos describing its current state. Despite these uncertainties, at 6:30 in the morning, the three of us set out on our journey.
As we proceeded, we noticed a gradual change in the landscape. Our path led us alongside the mountains, with lush green hills on either side. The view was absolutely breathtaking, and the beauty of the mountains left us speechless. Along the way, we encountered debris from the previous day’s landslide in some places, but it didn’t impede the flow of traffic.
After covering a considerable distance, we arrived at a tunnel named Dr. Syama Prasad Mookerjee Tunnel, previously known as Chenani-Nashri Tunnel. Curious about its length, I checked it and found that it was an impressive 9.028 kilometers long. Exiting the tunnel took a little while, as the vehicles were moving slowly within, and the ventilation wasn’t as good as we had hoped. The tunnel journey turned out to be a somewhat suffocating experience, as the smoke inside wasn’t adequately dispersed.
After exiting the tunnel, we took a brief rest and stopped both the bikes. We quenched our thirst by drinking some water. However, shortly after continuing our journey, we encountered a roadblock that brought all the vehicles to a standstill. Thankfully, Prabeen’s proficiency in Hindi allowed him to promptly inquire from the nearest soldier about the cause of the blockage. The soldier informed us that there was a landslide ahead, and it would take some time to clear the road. However, he suggested an alternative route for us since we were on bikes. If we turned back a little, there was another path parallel to the blocked one that we could take to bypass the obstruction. So, we decided to follow that path.
The alternate road was suitable only for two-wheelers due to a nearby bridge constructed with wooden planks on an iron frame. The bridge had a sign warning that only one vehicle was allowed to cross at a time, and travelers did so at their own risk. It was quite daunting, especially since many of the planks were unstable.
Eventually, we managed to get past the landslide area, where we noticed a excavator buried under the debris from the previous day’s landslide. Travelling through the mountains proved to be quite challenging, particularly for women, as finding suitable bathroom facilities was not always easy. However, a short distance away, we spotted buildings belonging to the project called “The Highway Nest (Mini)” by NHAI (National Highway Authority of India). These facilities provided a clean and comfortable bathroom, which was a relief, especially for women.
Our journey, though beautiful and somewhat adventurous, finally led us to the town of Srinagar. Various fruits were available for purchase in many places, but due to my stomach problem, I didn’t feel like eating. Nonetheless, when we saw the fruits, both Me and Divya couldn’t resist the temptation and decided to buy some. Afterward, we went to the houseboat we had previously booked, while Prabeen sought accommodation elsewhere.
Many travelers visiting Srinagar opt for houseboats on Dal Lake. However, based on Divya’s friend’s recommendation, we booked a houseboat on Nigeen Lake instead, which is slightly away from the crowded Dal Lake, as we prefer more serene and less crowded places. Upon reaching the destination, we realized that it was indeed the right decision. Nigeen Lake offered a tranquil and uncrowded environment, making it a perfect spot to enjoy the serene beauty of the lake. For lunch, we had fruits only, and our stomachs felt fine.
After taking a short rest, the caretaker of the houseboat arranged for a Shikara, a small boat with a covered top, for us. We chose a time after five o’clock, anticipating that the view of the lake would be breathtaking during the sunset. The convenience of this boathouse was that the Shikara was directly accessible from it.
It’s worth noting that we were advised not to wear sandals on the Shikara and houseboats, as their floors and seats are well-maintained, and they prefer to keep them clean and tidy.
The beauty of Nigeen Lake during sunset was truly mesmerizing. It was a serene and uncrowded lake, free from the hustle and bustle of traders like in Dal Lake. At present, the tranquility prevailed, though it might become crowded in the future. On one side of the lake, a picturesque lotus garden adorned the water’s surface with its abundant lotus leaves, buds, and blooming flowers. The lotus garden was separated from the lake by an embankment, resembling the ridges in fields, and it was adorned with a variety of native plants and flowers, adding to the scenic charm.
Houseboats were scattered along the lake’s banks, offering a unique sight. As the sunset drew nearer, a splendid symphony of colors unfolded in the sky. The blue gradually transformed into hues of yellow and orange, which were beautifully mirrored in the tranquil waters of the lake. The scene was beyond words, a breathtaking spectacle that left us in awe.
As darkness fell, we returned to the houseboat, and shortly after, two cloth merchants approached us. Each of them had a different collection of clothes for sale. We invited them onto the houseboat to showcase their merchandise. At that time, another Keralite family had also arrived to stay on the boat.
We explained our predicament to the vendors – our trip was by bike, and we couldn’t carry all the purchased items with us. However, they had a solution to offer. They could courier the clothes and other items to any address we provided. Impressed by their offer, we decided to purchase some clothes and other things. We provided them with our address and made a partial payment through UPI.
The vendors assured us that the remaining payment could be made once the goods reached our specified location. Within a week, all the items were delivered to our home, and we promptly sent them the rest of the money.
After dinner, we retired for the night. The check-out time for the houseboat was 11 am the next day. The houseboat keeper informed us to leave without any delay due to the ongoing Muharram celebrations. The police and army might block the roads, making travel challenging. Therefore, we decided to depart early to avoid any potential issues.
When we reached the road, we quickly understood the situation. Barbed wire barricades blocked each intersection, making even walking a challenging task. To add to the tension, there were policemen armed with big batons and army personnel carrying guns. We witnessed several locals attempting to cross the road but getting beaten by the baton-wielding officers. The scene frightened us.
Our hotel was merely 4 kilometers away, and we hoped they would open the roads for us, especially after they knew we had come all the way from Kerala. However, our hopes were shattered as the roads remained closed. Determined to reach our hotel, we sought help from some policemen and engaged in lengthy discussions and pleading. After nearly an hour and forty-five minutes of effort, we finally managed to reach our hotel.
The police and army personnel instructed us not to venture outside the hotel until late evening. With no other options available, we decided to pass the time by sleeping. The situation was tense, and it seemed the best course of action was to remain indoors until the tensions eased.
After dusk, the situation changed, and we decided to visit Dal Lake. There, we had the opportunity to meet some of Divya’s friends who had come for trekking. They, too, experienced some difficulties in the morning, but Prabeen, being an early riser, had already departed for Leh, so it didn’t pose a major issue for him. Additionally, we encountered some fellow Keralites during our time there.
Knowing that we had to return to Kargil the next day, we opted for a simple dinner and retired to bed early.
(To be continued…)
